Wagashi

Lore & Background

The word wagashi was coined at the end of the 1800s to distinguish Japanese confectionery from Western sweets, cakes, and baked goods termed yōgashi. However, wagashi did not become the common term for Japanese confectionery until after the Second World War. The definition of wagashi is ambiguous, and the line between wagashi and other types of Japanese confectionery is vague. For example, kasutera (castella), introduced from Portugal over 400 years ago, has been modified to suit Japanese tastes and is classified as wagashi. Even mizu shingen mochi (raindrop cake), created in 2014 by a wagashi shop, is recognized as wagashi in Japan. In recent years, wagashi shops have developed and marketed many confections that are an eclectic mix of wagashi and Western confections, often referred to as 'neo-wagashi'.

Reader's Guide

Wagashi developed dramatically during the Edo period, establishing what is known today as wagashi. From the Keicho to the Kan'ei era, classical Japanese literature and seasonal elegance began to be incorporated into wagashi brand names. During the Genroku era, wagashi with beautiful shapes and colors based on themes from classical literature and seasonal elegance began to be produced under the influence of the Rimpa school of art. Self-sufficiency in sugar increased when Tokugawa Yoshimune encouraged sugar production, and in Sanuki Province (now Kagawa Prefecture), sugar called wasanbon was produced. The common people began to eat wagashi that used a lot of sugar, and various types were produced, especially in Kyoto. Local wagashi specialties began to be produced in various regions, and a wagashi culture blossomed throughout the country. The design of nerikiri, a beautiful fresh confection with various shapes and colors that characterizes wagashi, was created and developed in Kyoto during this period and spread to all parts of Japan. The brand names and designs of these uniquely Japanese wagashi were compiled and recorded in picture books, the most famous being Onmushigashizu, which lists the brand names and designs of wagashi from each period of the Edo period in color illustrations.

Did You Know?

• The word wagashi was coined at the end of the 1800s to distinguish Japanese confectionery from Western sweets, but did not become common until after the Second World War.
• Nerikiri, a type of wagashi made by kneading white bean paste, gyūhi, sugar, yams, and other ingredients, was created and developed in Kyoto during the Edo period.
• Kasutera (castella), introduced from Portugal over 400 years ago, is classified as wagashi because it has been modified to suit Japanese tastes.
• Kanten (agar) was discovered in the 1650s, but contrary to popular belief, yōkan existed before kanten became common; kanten's use in yōkan became widespread later, not at its origin.